Balteo hike – Stage 4

This stage follows the road used by Napoleon’s light troops to bypass Bard Fortress.
For the entire final ascent and descent, you will walk along a beautiful military road, passing several military positions along the way. The one at Machaby has been converted into an excellent hostel.
Some sections of the climb are particularly steep and should be tackled with care and a steady pace.
The official route does not ascend to the Tête de Cou, but with a short detour from Col La Cou, you can reach it and enjoy a spectacular view of Bard Fortress towering below.

From the Pont-Saint-Martin motorway exit, turn left towards Aosta. At the roundabout, take the left-hand exit, continuing towards Aosta.
Continue until you reach Donnas. Just past the railway station, on the right-hand side, you will find a large two-storey car park.

From the centre of Donnas, climb the steep paved lane running alongside the stream, then cross it and continue until you meet the road again. Pass by a large boulder that fell some years ago, arriving at the small Prele car park.
Head right towards a small chapel, then continue steeply uphill. At the junction, take the path to the right, which climbs past steep rocky terraces among chestnut trees (a short equipped section), passing near a house built under a large rock, until you reach the paved road. Follow it uphill, passing to the right of a small chapel, and at the junction continue right to reach a small playground.
Continue along the rural road, passing large chestnuts and an aqueduct basin. Follow the road to the second hairpin bend, where on the left a very steep path climbs into the woods to reach the abandoned village of Fobe. Just before the village, a small chapel on the left is worth a short detour, offering a fine view of the Albard plateau.
Continue on an even steeper stretch, then along a traverse to reach the military mule track. Climb to the right with several hairpins, then cross a characteristic rocky ledge with clear views of Bard Fortress. A final traverse brings you to the village of Verale. At the start of the village, pause at the charming chapel (near the first houses you can also see the old village oven). Just after, on the left, the mule track begins, leading to Colle La Cou.
From the pass, it is worth a detour from the official route along the broad ridge to the Tête de Cou (allow about half an hour for the return). Continuing beyond the summit for a few dozen metres, you can look down directly onto Bard Fortress.
Returning to the pass, descend along the wide path, which transforms into a fine military mule track as it enters the woods. After the houses of Arbenache, at a hairpin bend near a house on the right, you can see both a compass rose carved by the soldiers and the “sword in the rock.”
Continue and shortly reach the area known as the batteries. On the right, just a few metres from the path, is an inscription carved into the rock by the road builders. Continue with a few hairpins, passing ancient chestnut trees, until you reach the Forte di Machaby hostel.
Take a short visit to the village of Machaby and the women’s slide, then shortly afterwards arrive at the large Sanctuary of Machaby (just before, note a monumental tree). The route continues along a scenic straight section of the beautiful mule track.
Cross the bridge (just after, on the right, two inscriptions commemorate the road’s construction and a recent restoration of the bridge), then continue along the mule track until reaching the paved road. Follow it, then turn right onto the old road, which passes near Vallaise Castle and leads into the centre of Arnad.